“Very low crocodile risk” warns the sign at the entrance to the first of several natural swimming holes we have earmarked for a dip on our Northern Territory road trip.

Hmm. It’s not terribly reassuring.

Nor is another notice nearby that advises freshwater crocodiles “inhabit this area” and “can become aggressive and cause injury if disturbed”.

Nonetheless, it is the territory’s dry season (May to October) and, like most of the other managed swimming spots found along the Stuart Highway between Alice Springs and Darwin, this one is open for business.

The water is crystal-clear, the temperature perfect.

So, refusing to be deterred by the very low risk of coming nose-to-nose with a snappy reptile – and encouraged by the fact there’s a trap at either end, and that parks and wildlife staff carry out regular checks – we join a small stream of other swimmers and jump in.

It’s just the beginning of a tour of discovery through the NT’s national parks, whose natural swimming holes must be among the most enticing anywhere in the world… as long as you obey the signs and stay safe.

Here are four favourites:

Bitter Springs (Elsey National Park)

The thermal waters of Bitter Springs, near the small township of Mataranka in Elsey National Park, can be found along a short path that leads through tropical woodlands and is flanked by statuesque palm trees.

You know you’ve arrived when the sight of its beautiful aqua-blue-green thermal waters stops you in your tracks.

 

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A unique feature of Bitter Springs is its slow-moving current – descend the man-made platform into the 34-degree waters and let it gently pull you downstream until you reach the end barrier, from where you can walk back along a loop track and do it all again. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a turtle among the reeds and waterlilies.

Many visitors buy pool noodles from the nearby Bitter Springs cabins and camping ground (an excellent place to stay) but there’s really no need if you’re a competent swimmer, with submerged logs doubling as spots to stop and enjoy the serenity along the way. A few keen swimmers even swim against the current just for the exercise.

Mataranka Thermal Pool (Elsey National Park)

Mataranka Thermal pool is surrounded by tropical plants. Photo: Suzie Keen

Mataranka doesn’t quite have the untamed, freeform appeal of nearby Bitter Springs, but it is still a lovely swimming spot surrounded by paperbark, palms and other tropical plants. There’s also comfort to be had in the fact it has a clearly visible sandy bottom so you can sure there’s nothing lurking beneath.

The spring-fed pool is accessed via a short loop walk starting at privately owned Mataranka Homestead, which offers accommodation as well as a restaurant and bar.

Mataranka’s resident peacock guards the replica homestead. Photo: Suzie Keen

Adjacent to the carpark is a replica of the original Elsey Station Homestead from Jeannie Gunn’s famous 1908 autobiographical novel We of the Never Never, which was built for the 1980s film of the same name.

Enjoy a picnic lunch on the picnic tables nearby and keep an eye out for the overly familiar resident peacocks. They will try to steal your lunch … but at least they won’t eat you.

Buley Rockhole (Litchfield National Park)

Buley offers an inviting series of cascading pools. Photo: Suzie Keen

Not so much a single rockhole as a series of picturesque cascading pools set in scenic bushland, Buley is something special – and easily accessible, since Litchfield itself is only about a 90-minute drive from Darwin.

The pools are all different depths, making them ideal for families. When we visited, children were taking turns at jumping in at one of the deeper spots. Adults will probably prefer to simply back up to the falls in a quieter pool and enjoy a free neck and shoulder massage courtesy of the cool rapids – it’s pure joy.

Buley was the only waterhole where we actually spotted a reptile. Fortunately, it was merely a monitor lizard.

Florence Falls (Litchfield National Park)

The cascading waterfalls of Florence Falls. Photo: Suzie Keen

Located just a five-minute drive further along the same road as Buley, Florence Falls sits in the middle of monsoon rainforest and offers a completely different experience. Two large waterfalls tumble into one expansive, deep plunge pool, which you’ll share with schools of sizeable fish that it’s best to be aware of before they brush against your legs.

There’s a choice of two paths into the pool, the longest of which is the one-kilometre-long Shady Creek Walk – a lovely tranquil trek through woodlands that will warm you up for the cool plunge. To get there a little quicker, the more popular track goes via a lookout and descends down 160 steps.

There’s also a campsite at Florence, but if you want a few more facilities the nearby, family-owned Litchfield Tourist Park is an ideal spot to park a van or pitch a tent.

Honourable mentions

Berry Springs is a popular nature park near Darwin. Photo: Suzie Keen

Berry Springs Nature Park: The closest swimming spot to Darwin, making it popular with locals and day-trippers. The water was murkier than in other waterholes visited, but it scores points for accessibility, plus the park has shady picnic and barbecue areas.

Katherine Hot Springs: Fed by a natural underground spring in the Katherine township, these thermal pools are popular with locals and visitors. They lack some of the magic of places like Buley and Bitter Springs, but still offer clear, 25-30-degree waters in a pretty natural setting.

Wangi Falls: Next to a campground, this is another popular spot in Litchfield National Park, with walking tracks surrounding the swimming hole and a handy shop for snacks. Unfortunately, the swimming hole was close during our visit because rangers had recently spotted a large salty.

Leliyn (Edith Falls): This picturesque spot in Nitmiluk National Park is just north of Katherine, but the entry road was closed during our trip due to flooding. It’s usually open most of the year, with Leliyn also popular with bushwalkers – while the lower pool is near the carpark, a steep 2.6-kilometre trail leads to the upper pools.

Always take heed of the warning signs. Photo: Suzie Keen

Be ‘croc-wise’

There are a few rules everyone should follow in the Northern Territory, the most important of which is only swim in swimming spots with an “open” sign.

While some places are open all year round except during extreme flooding (such as Bitter Springs, Mataranka, Florence Falls and Buley), others close in the wet season (Katherine, Wangi Falls).

The NT Government’s Parks and Wildlife staff regularly monitor waterholes for crocodiles, removing any that manage to bypass the traps. A full list of tips, along with the status of various waterholes and pools, can be founded on the NT parks website.

As long as you stay safe, there really is nothing cooler than a natural swimming hole.